I need to get out there with you guys....
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Project: Fairlady Silvia - 1987 200sx SEv6...
Team S12 ^^)b
I actually blown a rear shock, will have to upgrade the old sub frame bushing. lol nothing major, I had fun and she felt awesome when I had her sideways. I got confused at a few turns of what or now to initiate though. I just ended up clutch kicking at the second part of the first hairpin and power over at the third and sometimes I connect it and sometimes I ended up in the dirt.
77-91 ford e-150 shocks. try em out
They bolt up?
yep
Thats what I'm running on my car right now, i've done 8 events on them and they are holding up pretty good.
Can I use them without limiting straps?
How stiff are they?
March 30th drift event OH YEAH!!!
(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/jersadras/Jers%20Snaps/IMG_4994_zps86629a02.jpg)
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(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/jersadras/Jers%20Snaps/IMG_5013_zpsfa8c4194.jpg)
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Awesome pictures dude.
Well Yesterday and today is been an epic time.
My old gremlin has returned. As this only happens in the heat of the day when it starts to get hotter out side and only when I drive the car for more then 15 - 30 minutes if I turn it off after a long drive it will not start back up instead it will give me a click click issue when I turn the key and when this does this it will be at random when it will want to work again, normally it would fix it self after 2 -3 hours.
So I was stuck at walmart after work on Friday 4/12/2012 and I couldn't get her started. So I called for a tow, and was towed to my house.
Then 3 hours later it fired up just fine, and I went for a drive and noticed that my car is now completely out of alignment.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/902275_564590350247788_1942686414_o.jpg)
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So repaired that, then I pulled the starter, started tested good and strong, cleaned the connection and the battery cable. Tested the battery and the battery tested good and strong. Checked the relays and for shits and giggles replaced them all. car is starting just fine now. But I will hunt down my PWR2 and upgrade to that to help eliminate any possible issues with the ignition chip.
Went a head and attempted to hunt down my dash lighting problem, but that was a failure as I cannot find a damn switch that is causing my dash lights and now I noticed when I turn the headlight switch to 1 not with full headlights on my stereo comes on and any lighting inside with out the key in the ignition as if I put it in accessory mode. I am actually confused with what is going on with the lighting now.
My head lights still wont go down, I am suspecting it's the relay black box, will pick one up from the junk yard tomorrow.
And when I was putting the starter back in the tow truck guy came back to apologize about what happened and paid for the inner tie rod.
i'll show you the fix for the dash lights next time i see you. just remind me
Yeah, just don't know the location where to tie into, I was thinking about that earlier with the testing light and found a few places but it would only light up half of the lights.
I'd be calling that for company and getting them to pay for that tie rod and alignment.
Done with the tie rod company paid for it, alignment I am not worried about as I mimic'ed as much as it was before and it drives just like it has been driving almost anyways.
Tad slight to the left now.
google alignment with tape measures
On your intermittent starter problem, if it happens again have someone hold the key while you tap the starter with a hammer. If it starts, replace starter & solenoid. I have had this happen in 2 chevys, no reason it shouldn't show up in a Nissan. In my experience, only happens when hot.
My wife's 92 pathy had what sounds like a similar problem. We replaced starter, relays, cleaned connections and all that too. Turns out it was the ignition switch. I have no idea why it acted up more when the weather was hot, but it certainly made the difference.
yeah that is what I thought to, so for now in trail of elimination ill start with that ignitor chip upgrade to pwr2. if still the issue then new starter.
i have an extra ignition switch layin around somewhere. idk if mkI and mkII wiring might be different tho.
So I came up with this idea with random stickers to cover up all the cracks and epoxy all the broken pieces on the dash.
and I am doing the PWR2 upgrade. I got the wiring diagram from Gus to work on. I just gotta stop forgetting to get the pwr2 upgrade from the junk yard.
The PRW2 is stupid easy. I think most of the colors match up even lol
I'm the one that wired his up haha
Did the PRW2 upgrade 2 weeks ago,
this past few days it has started to idle funny at stop lights between 800 - 400rpms and checking all vaccums lines, had to replace rotor + cap since my cap has a chip broken and I found this out by putting my hand ontop of it while it was running and I got shocked =/ rotor was toasted so replaced it.
But still idles funny, changed out the PRW2 with the second one I have but still idles funny. IACV is turned up and still wont idle higher then 800rpm. Getting kinda stumped, it isn't killing the response time driving, just only happening at idle. I am thinking my Spectre cone needs to be replaced as it does have holes in it now.
its an S12. its never gonna know how to idle haha
hahah, it was idling great since the PRW2 mod, at 800 - 900.
Wonderingraven on 11:48:37 PM / 30-Apr-13hahah, it was idling great since the PRW2 mod, at 800 - 900.They idle wherever they want, trust me, I gave up trying to solve my idle. Idles anywhere between 700-1000, ain't even mad
Word^
Mine would idle at 800 constantly, unless I had my headlights on, it would idle at 1100-1200 then hahaha.
I_heart_VVL on 11:24:17 AM / 02-May-13Mine would idle at 800 constantly, unless I had my headlights on, it would idle at 1100-1200 then hahaha.That's what it's supposed to do!!
I am assuming at this point it's the EGR vavle.
I just spent a few hours trouble shooting the issue, I recreated all the vaccum lines, eliminating all vaccum leaks. Used brake cleaner on all intake gaskets, all hoses, everywhere.
Unplugged the device that connects to the egr that has vaccum lines. I am assuming at this point either this device or the egr is bad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=FXxPCt1STbc
If anyone knows if the z31 egr delete kit fits? let me That would be awesome to know.
delete Kit? just make a metal plate. Hell I'll make it for you. and we'll weld the tube shut
Don't think that is my issue. But I am down to delete more vaccum leads, I just finished removing this odd box that is under the brake master that connects before the cat on the exhaust that needs vaccum? I gotta remove that from my exhaust still. That would remove 1 vaccum leads, leaving 3 left. I believe I can hook up an filter on the valve cover and remove the vaccum line from that as well, leaving one vaccum to the bottom of the Throttle body and the other one to the IACv, in which I can't delete the IACv as of yet. or it wont crank.
what days are you off work?
Saturday / Sunday, Unless I get on board from contract, then it will be I think Friday / Saturday.
Moved with the S12 MAF & ECU, turns out the Z31 maf has a broken element inside. But that wasn't the issue. My idle a bit better now but still acting like it wants to die, for some odd reason I am getting more of a response with the s12 maf / ecu back in place. But that is most likely due to the bad element in the z31 maf.
Tomorrow I will be doing the CHTS, Timing Belt and Tensioner. Seems like I cannot find an FTS anywhere in the stores in town nor on Rock Auto, so I will check for an FPR with a few stores tomorrow to see if they might have one with them and swap that out as well.
Finially figured out the issue, sadly enough I wished I would of realized it before the weekend was over with.
What I should of realized was
1) what cracked my dizzy cap...
2) Odd ware with the rotor and the inside contacts of the dizzy cap.
When I pulled the dizzy to inspect it, I had shaft play that goes up and down. I wasn't fully aware or known that it was alright. So I proceeded with the timing belt change over.
Then I realized that the old cap and rotor was worn really bad in a weird way.
I got my timing belt on perfect to the book specs.
I had trouble with the timing belt because the injectors connector and the dizzy connector was the same and I mixed them up when I was plugging in the dizzy.
Waiting for the weekend when i can get out to the junk yard to pick up a replacement dizzy.
glad u figured it out man
Slowly putting things back together, I will be hitting the yards in the morning for some new parts.
Here is a few pics of the finishing up tune up
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Running really rich for a while now.
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And a shot of my engine bay, just about done.
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Post Merge
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=alqM4BfvGjw
You know where you can get a replacement dizzy ;D
Glad you got it sorted though!
Thanks sir. Just feels better now, drove it a few times already kicked it sideways a few times. Seems to be really responsive now, idling feels good now. Now that I have this dialed in I can now focus on getting it looking good and gather some drift spares.
Cool looking like its coming together nicely
Yeah, slowly but nicely.
I still have a few bugs to work out such as there is a weird noise now that happens when the engine is revving down from throttle. Almost like pressure is being released or something odd.
doesnt the intake pendelum make a noice like that ...i know mine for sure does
intake is at the crank?
LOL this noise is coming from the crank area, but turns out it's something with the power steering lines is doing it for some odd reason causing a small burst leak when under pressure.

Yep starting issues again.
Pulled the starter because I am defiantly really sick and tired of these games. Had it tested and passed with flying colors multiple times.
It has to be in the harness, so I cleaned up some connectors, Then it fired up.
So my next fun is installing a simple 2 wires 1 to battery and 1 to starter switch.
Post Merge
Well attempted to do a ghetto setup figured I have some 18 guage wire left that I can run, and this s12 switch I could use.
Well... it didn't turn out too well. In fact the switch didn't work and I leave to go pee and come back I smelt burning electrical. Came to the car and seen all the wires in a raging burning red glowing wire. Quickly I disconnected the battery and let the wire cool down before my car caught on fire, lol.
Never nor less I learned quickly that I can't do that. Instead I will go and get a real push button from vatozone tomorrow and reinstall.
Here is what is left of the wire.

Always double check your work. Like above I didn't double check where the cable was laying. So my car died mid drift. LOL
That sucks
It's all good, thanks to Waylon and this cable I finally figured out the wiring gremlin.
Here is a few pics I took at VD27






With this heat, I was intimidated just a bit. But I got sideways and had fun, it really was hard this round to keep it going sideways as I keep getting that feeling of it gripping and I keep giving it too much power and when you give too much power IE clutching it too much and gasing it too much you spin out. A few times I went gymkhana style and rally, But overall I had fun. I wished it wasn't soo hot out, it sounded like my fuel pump was over heating as it made a huge noise when I was driving for a while and to add the high pitch humming sound from my rear end again, After I let it cool down the noise went away. (I really forgot to check my rear end fluid, lol)
awesome!
Yeah, it was awesome time. Too bad my brother got hit with heat stroke from driving around town saturday or I'd had him take some videos, I will be in market soon for a go pro going to need one.
2qt low, and did an oil change
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1053455_600270166679806_1291219371_o.jpg)
Also checked out why I was rocking 0 front camber on the passenger side.
turns out last event it knocked it into full positive,
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Easy fixable.
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