200sxkitcarI have the pics he sent me uploaded to my photobucket thing, clicky (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee276/Sterlingps12/)sterling, hide my pics =P
I will link them here eventually. I would really like to see a pic of the turbo mounting itself, have you got any of those?? Thanks again!
Browse › Builds & Media ›Build projects
Remote mount turbo V6 project
lol. I don't know how to.
I will update with more pics he sent. Its a crazy setup!
Sterling...thanks for linking up the pics[let me know if you want more or of something specific]...i agree,its crazy!!!...i finished up a few more changes....replaced another flex-pipe [3 ft] section of the cold side turbo with a aluminum pipe and 45 deg silicone connectors..i want to wrap the blue silicone connectors with black tape or spray flat black,a couple drivers are honking/thumbs up at lights and asking about the turbo in the rear because the bright blue connectors are so visible now....gotta keep it stealth[lol]...i also cut an opening above my IC and mounted a 300zx turbo hood scoop[not stealth but the IC is happier]..i used a sawzall and air nibbler to cut the rectangle opening...rigged up a air damn[thick foam blocks] so the IC is sealed from the engine bay and fed cool air by the hood scoop/core fans....snow and ice in NYC,no new times....i hate this time of year!
mcSterling...thanks for linking up the pics[let me know if you want more or of something specific]...i agree,its crazy!!!...i finished up a few more changes....replaced another flex-pipe [3 ft] section of the cold side turbo with a aluminum pipe and 45 deg silicone connectors..i want to wrap the blue silicone connectors with black tape or spray flat black,a couple drivers are honking/thumbs up at lights and asking about the turbo in the rear because the bright blue connectors are so visible now....gotta keep it stealth[lol]...i also cut an opening above my IC and mounted a 300zx turbo hood scoop[not stealth but the IC is happier]..i used a sawzall and air nibbler to cut the rectangle opening...rigged up a air damn[thick foam blocks] so the IC is sealed from the engine bay and fed cool air by the hood scoop/core fans....snow and ice in NYC,no new times....i hate this time of year!when I first read this thread, i was thinking the turbo was near the Y pipe.....boy way I wrong. thats WAY remote mount. You should just use the turbo for a muffler and cut off whatever is on there now =P
mc..i had it set up like that initially, no mufler after the turbo...but it was to annoying after a couple months driving it...attracts alot less attention with the 3" tube muffler.I bet it had a really unique sound to it.
On the muffler, does it run side-to side like right near the bumper? I didn't really see it in any of the pics. LOL@ people noticing the silicon connector, I bet they were like wtf?!?! It would be real interesting when the weather gets decent again how low your et's are at, thats a pretty decent run for starters...
200sxkitcarOn the muffler, does it run side-to side like right near the bumper? I didn't really see it in any of the pics. LOL@ people noticing the silicon connector, I bet they were like wtf?!?! It would be real interesting when the weather gets decent again how low your et's are at, thats a pretty decent run for starters...i'll get you a pix of the muffler...but yeah,its mounted parallel to the rear bumper...it fits inbetween the fuel tank and bumper cover...perfect void to mount the tube muffler...its 3" in/out long case from JC Whitney.
Ah, ok, I figured. I didn't know if there was enough room there. Just don't get rear-ended!
mcI spent the past two days tearing down the upper intake,cleaning out the gunk,painting and replacing the injectors with the turbo set...installed the turbo ecu and it fired right up.It pulls so much harder now..Anyway, it is holding a rock steady idle and pulling over 20 on the vacuum guage.i need to adapt a couple more of the 300z turbo parts[idle and fuel ] to finish.I'm going to try to use 86 300zx turbo ecu also. My question is don't 300zx's have a knock sensor and 200sx's don't? Did you add one, does it work with out it, or am I just missled that they have one in the first place. I'm just wondering cause I've had 3 300z ecu's and I could not get any to work correct. I dont know if they were bad or if I did something wrong. Thanks
BoostedVGI'm going to try to use 86 300zx turbo ecu also. My question is don't 300zx's have a knock sensor and 200sx's don't? Did you add one, does it work with out it, or am I just missled that they have one in the first place. I'm just wondering cause I've had 3 300z ecu's and I could not get any to work correct. I dont know if they were bad or if I did something wrong. Thanks...i didnt wire in the knock sensor...my 86 turbo ecu never kicks out a trouble code either w/o it being connected....i use the 1986 300zx turbo ecu,matching 300zx low ohm turbo injectors,300zx AFM and stock 200sxSE o2 sensor..23 degrees initial timing ...idles rock steady[20.5" vacuum@ full warm] ... pulls hard up to red line....you shouldnt have a problem.
The knock sensor doesn't do anything (puts out no voltage signal) unless there is knocking or it goes bad. When the correct vibration occurs due to detonation/knocking, or the unit goes boink, a voltage is produced which is sent to the ECU. When the ECU senses any voltage coming from that circuit, it will retard timing, reduce boost, or whatever the system is programmed for. So if you leave it out or disconnected it won't be a problem, but if you do indeed run into detonation issues, the computer will never know the difference and you might have problems. If you do decide to use one, usually it just screws into the side of the block and a single wire connects to it.
...one other bit of info is that i replaced the 200sxSE idle/fast idle solnoids with the correct 300zx similar turbo unit...it will bolt right into the 200sxSE upper intake location but the harness is differant[not plug n play]...it needs the similar four wires but differant plugs...i wasnt able to wire it up using the 200sx SE harness but its not a problem....the idle speed is set using the screw on the solinoid and it works to raise and lower the idle...it doesnt need ECU feedback...the fast idle was adapted by running a toggle switch[12volts and a ground to the solinoid] to the dash and using that as a on/off to raise the idle if needed for headlites/excess electrical load[not really needed but nice to have]...i would recheck those turbo ECU'S and disconnect the harness to the idle/fast solinoids...and then turn out the idle screw to steady the idle at 850rpm or so...this is assuming you were using the supporting AFM/injectors/ect.
Cool thats what I wanted to know. The car I got the ecu from is still at the yard so I can still get parts. I just have one more question about the fuel injectors. I'm running venom hp-630 fuel injectors for a 88 200sx that work with a stock 200sx computer would they be low ohm also?
BoostedVGCool thats what I wanted to know. The car I got the ecu from is still at the yard so I can still get parts. I just have one more question about the fuel injectors. I'm running venom hp-630 fuel injectors for a 88 200sx that work with a stock 200sx computer would they be low ohm also?i believe so...i'll check my old injectors with my tester....how much do those flow?
mci believe so...i'll check my old injectors with my tester....how much do those flow?You know I'm not sure. Venom only gave a HP rating that they can support which is 390 hp.
mc...one other bit of info is that i replaced the 200sxSE idle/fast idle solnoids with the correct 300zx similar turbo unit...it will bolt right into the 200sxSE upper intake location but the harness is differant[not plug n play]...it needs the similar four wires but differant plugs...i wasnt able to wire it up using the 200sx SE harness but its not a problem....the idle speed is set using the screw on the solinoid and it works to raise and lower the idle...it doesnt need ECU feedback...the fast idle was adapted by running a toggle switch[12volts and a ground to the solinoid] to the dash and using that as a on/off to raise the idle if needed for headlites/excess electrical load[not really needed but nice to have]...i would recheck those turbo ECU'S and disconnect the harness to the idle/fast solinoids...and then turn out the idle screw to steady the idle at 850rpm or so...this is assuming you were using the supporting AFM/injectors/ect.I was wondering why the stock 200sx harness couldn't be adapted to the 300zx solinoid? Do the wires go to a different pin at the ecu plug or something?
BoostedVGI was wondering why the stock 200sx harness couldn't be adapted to the 300zx solinoid? Do the wires go to a different pin at the ecu plug or something?not sure...i tried but couldnt figure it out...if you search on the 300zx sites they show how to swap the wires to get the n/a harness to adapt correctly....it should work on ours as well...give it try.
...so after pushing the boost to 15lbs[fun stuff] the old T3 started to get noisey...i just sent away for a complete turbo rebuild kit...80.00 plus a free balance[EBAY seller with perfect feedback]...nice little winter project for when i start vacation in January....the turbo came apart very easy...i decided to paint up the turbo with high heat paint...flat black makes the whole rear mount blend in better....i also slightly ported the turbo downpipe with the dremel tool.
..i'm still waiting on the turbo rebuild kit to arrive and decided to use the down time to try and relocate the AFM back up front in the engine bay.. i never liked the long harness that was adapted to get it to work in the rear of car... ...so i switched in a few bends from a 300zx and now the AFM is after the IC and before the T/B...its a little tight so i had to relocate the charcoal canister....the stock harness has enough slack to reach the AFM as well...conversion to blow through complete.
update..the rebuild kit wasnt enough to salvage the T3 turbo so the car remains out of commision for the time being...anyone want to sell a decent used 300zx turbo??...since i was able to relocate the AFM back in the engine compartment,there was now more room to mount the Mocal oil pump higher up behind the fuel tank...no more seeing the pump from the rear.
i have a t25 off a ca18det if thats of any use to u
juliei have a t25 off a ca18det if thats of any use to u. might be to small??..i'll have to read up on that one..thanks for the offer.
update..the car is still sitting on ramps[i miss driving this car!!]...i'm waiting on a T3 i bought off a member on Z31.COM...anyway,I picked up a cheap wide band 02 kit that is being assembled ..its a J.A.W kit[70.00] which uses a VW wide- band oxygen sensor[50.00]..i plan on removing the cat and installing a cheater pipe where the 02 will be mounted...it will be interesting to get some AFR readings on this set-up as the boost is raised.
mc. might be to small??..i'll have to read up on that one..thanks for the offer.
if you had two thatd be plenty:)
Wouldn't work for this... remote mount is best with a single turbo.
I still think this is the single best option for SE owners.
ArroWouldn't work for this... remote mount is best with a single turbo.
I still think this is the single best option for SE owners.
i know thats not what i meant....i know not the right thread for that
*bonks you on the head*
Seriously tho this project has LOTS of potential.
mcupdate..the car is still sitting on ramps[i miss driving this car!!]...i'm waiting on a T3 i bought off a member on Z31.COM...anyway,I picked up a cheap wide band 02 kit that is being assembled by former member Crowbar...its a J.A.W kit[70.00] which uses a VW wide- band oxygen sensor[50.00]..i plan on removing the cat and installing a cheater pipe where the 02 will be mounted...it will be interesting to get some AFR readings on this set-up as the boost is raised.I also thought it would be a good idea to get a wideband.. I just got a AEM one which was expensive...$70 for a J.A.W. sounds much better then what I paid.
mc...one other bit of info is that i replaced the 200sxSE idle/fast idle solnoids with the correct 300zx similar turbo unit...it will bolt right into the 200sxSE upper intake location but the harness is differant[not plug n play]...it needs the similar four wires but differant plugs...i wasnt able to wire it up using the 200sx SE harness but its not a problem....the idle speed is set using the screw on the solinoid and it works to raise and lower the idle...it doesnt need ECU feedback...the fast idle was adapted by running a toggle switch[12volts and a ground to the solinoid] to the dash and using that as a on/off to raise the idle if needed for headlites/excess electrical load[not really needed but nice to have]...i would recheck those turbo ECU'S and disconnect the harness to the idle/fast solinoids...and then turn out the idle screw to steady the idle at 850rpm or so...this is assuming you were using the supporting AFM/injectors/ect.
Here's a little more info on that
http://88hybrid.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5139 (http://88hybrid.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5139)
Also you don't need the knock sensor. It is completely useless because it shuts off at high rpms anyways.
mc...one other bit of info is that i replaced the 200sxSE idle/fast idle solnoids with the correct 300zx similar turbo unit...it will bolt right into the 200sxSE upper intake location but the harness is differant[not plug n play]...it needs the similar four wires but differant plugs...i wasnt able to wire it up using the 200sx SE harness but its not a problem....the idle speed is set using the screw on the solinoid and it works to raise and lower the idle...it doesnt need ECU feedback...the fast idle was adapted by running a toggle switch[12volts and a ground to the solinoid] to the dash and using that as a on/off to raise the idle if needed for headlites/excess electrical load[not really needed but nice to have]...i would recheck those turbo ECU'S and disconnect the harness to the idle/fast solinoids...and then turn out the idle screw to steady the idle at 850rpm or so...this is assuming you were using the supporting AFM/injectors/ect.
Here's a little more info on that
http://88hybrid.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5139 (http://88hybrid.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5139)
Also you don't need the knock sensor. It is completely useless because it shuts off at high rpms anyways.
..I installed the replacement turbo today ...started it up and it sounds great...one thing i noticed is that with the AFM located before the T/B now makes it rev up instantly with the throttle movement...before[AFM pre-turbo] it was a slight hesitation before it would rev with slight tip-in.
MC, so far this is the only picture that we have on file:
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m288/sonuvaz/IMG_0795.jpg)
Can you provide more pictures? I'd like to see it from a couple different angles, and from a bit more underneath.
New pics, with the new turbo.
If you get me clean enough pictures, I can help you document this in an orderly fashion... a sort of "how-to".
Also, what PSI are you running now?
nice man cant wait to see hp figures and some vids
ArroMC, so far this is the only picture that we have on file:...right now it's back to stock low boost, i want to get a feel with the new AFM location before i get it back up to 10-11 psi...i'll PM you about the pix's...thx,mike
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m288/sonuvaz/IMG_0795.jpg)
Can you provide more pictures? I'd like to see it from a couple different angles, and from a bit more underneath.
New pics, with the new turbo.
If you get me clean enough pictures, I can help you document this in an orderly fashion... a sort of "how-to".
Also, what PSI are you running now?
...the wide-band kit[JAW] is almost ready for install.. the kit is now being adapted to use a USB connection so it will work with my laptop...its going to log some nice data from this setup....i'm waiting for a warm day to crawl under the car to remove the cat and take measurements to build a cheater /02pipe.,..... i had some extra misting nozzles left over from my cheapo water/alky injection so i mounted them in a "t" fitting and installed it inbetween the IC and the small cooling fans...its triggered on with the Hobbs switch [set at low boost] and uses a simple w.w. washer pump...i've been using water with just enough washer fluid to keep from freezing.
Jason, there are more pics on my photobucket thing.
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee276/Sterlingps12/ (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee276/Sterlingps12/)
Not sure if it has already been brought up, but you really do want to be careful with the way your turbo is clocked, so you can optimize drainage. The way you have it setup right now will encourage oil coking and lack of drainage. Ideally you should have the feed line coming in direct from the top and the drain (obviously) directly opposite.
Neat setup though.
-Dan
RB25sx - SLPRNot sure if it has already been brought up, but you really do want to be careful with the way your turbo is clocked, so you can optimize drainage. The way you have it setup right now will encourage oil coking and lack of drainage. Ideally you should have the feed line coming in direct from the top and the drain (obviously) directly opposite.thx,..i agree the lines should be repositioned..i always wanted to reclock the lines position but never got around to it...it never smoked so i left it alone...i think having the Mocal pump pulling the oil out might be helping it drain effectively.
Neat setup though.
-Dan
the car is going for its annual state emmission/safety inspection in the beginning of next month so i've had to hold off on the removing of the cat convertor..my plan is to retard the initial timing 5* less than last year...it should pass even cleaner...once that's out of the way i can start on the cheater pipe/wide band 02.
ill be watching this one for a while, im in the process of rebuilding my vg for boost, to install in my coupe...
i want to stick the turbo closer to the engine, where the cat resides, and maybe use a charge cooler along with methanol to make some good power figures :]
great setup, im pleased with your positive results :]
I would be concerned about the depth or height if you will of the bump for the cat where you plan on putting it, not sure if it would be enough, and being farther towards the center of the car more likely to catch something on the ground (speedbumps, etc) than farther at the ends of the car. I had considered this as well, but I don't think there is quite enough room. If the Man finds you with this assembly, you might take it in the ass, as well. Cali is kinda particular about the cat thing.
purely a weekend car, just to cruise and meet
and the occasional exhibition :o
Why do you say that?
ArroWhy do you say that?
me?
because thats what it is...lol, i have a daily driver
i want something raw, barely streetable, something to blow that pants off c6 vettes, something not quite reasonable or normal
Well that comes down to $$$$. Bang for the buck, this remote mount does the job. And I'd actually race it that way if it was allowable in certain classes. Certainly more capable than just exhibition or weekend drives. Just sounded to me like you were downgrading it's potential.
ArroWell that comes down to $$$$. Bang for the buck, this remote mount does the job. And I'd actually race it that way if it was allowable in certain classes. Certainly more capable than just exhibition or weekend drives. Just sounded to me like you were downgrading it's potential.
not really, im not dissing the remote mount at all, bang for the buck, it kicks ass
but what if you wanted 500 hp out of a vg? would that be possible? with good response?
dont get me wrong, when im done with my s12, i will drive it as long as i can afford to gas it up, i miss that car so much, and its sat for well over a year now
caraudiofoolerybut what if you wanted 500 hp out of a vg? would that be possible? with good response?
I think it could, yes... other platforms have done it with V6's and smallblock V8's. Will it perform as well as an engine bay mounted setup? No, but I think the difference would be minimal... an intercooler affects response quite a bit, even with a good flowing core. You don't use an IC on a remote-mount.
ArroI think it could, yes... other platforms have done it with V6's and smallblock V8's. Will it perform as well as an engine bay mounted setup? No, but I think the difference would be minimal... an intercooler affects response quite a bit, even with a good flowing core. You don't use an IC on a remote-mount.i agree with ARRO...I dont see it being a problem getting close to 500 hp with any front,mid or rear 3.0 set-up..its all in the build recipe, but i doubt very few need 500hp...if I was starting from scratch, i think a mid mount aint worth the risk of shearing it off[its tight down there!!] and you still have to deal with the Mocal/Shurflo oil return pump..a mid mount would only reduce the hot /cold piping about 1/3 to 1/2 its running length ,its better than a rear mount but not enough gained in the riskier location trade off..i'm happy with how my rear mount turned out ,it has easy 250hp..under 6.0 sec 0-60mph ...over 100 in the 1/4..and damn good hwy gas milage[23mpg is my best so far]..it keeps the cat for emmission testing none-sense.its mounted up high enough that its impossible to back it into anything..people who claim its going to bottom out back there have no idea what their talking about...people who claim it cant be driven in the rain are wrong as well..most of the added weight of the set up is in the rear of the car where its needed bad anyway and the rest is spread over the front to rear evenly...the majority of the cold side tubing is lite weight aluminum pipe.
hey i was just asking...lol
caraudiofooleryhey i was just asking...lol..nothing wrong with asking,LOL!!.if my engine ever blows, i'd like to go with a 3.3 with the remote set up...GET A slightly larger turbo/injectors/better ECU/fuel pump..500HP EASY...will never happen because this is low budget project!!