I was going to see if Firestone would do the high pressure flush just to be sure.
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Project: Fairlady Silvia - 1987 200sx SEv6...
Or them... lol Didn't know firestone did that...
I assume they do it all since they are a full on shop.
Yeah makes sense...
replaced water pump and now it is staying cool.
Undeleted the IACV and AAC got a great start up and idle but still overheats. At this point I am suspecting my heads are in fact warped.
So I will be pulling each head this week and testing for warping and / or fixing. I have also a whole felpro kit to also remove any evergreen gasket set that is left.
Turns out that the head gaskets that I got was victor reinz or knock offs as they failed completely if I would of progressed with them they would have blown. I pulled the driver side head and the gasket was caked on and removing it was some how extremely thin and brittle.
Tested the head and it is not warped or cracked in anyway, the water passages are rusted inside which seems to be a concern now, I am going to see about cleaning them out after I pull the passenger side head off tonight.
I over looked a huge chunk missing that is near the combustion chamber on both heads, so I am now in search to see if I can use a set of vg33 heads instead.
I pulled a fresh, clean set of vg33 heads from an 2000 wrecked pathfinder.... seems that someone before me attempted to remove the cam shafts but stripped the shit out of the bolts.
Everything lines up all the coolant holes and all and best of all the stripped driver side threads are no longer,
and and the fixed intake bolt is no longer a problem.
As soon as I remove the cam bolts I will transferring the Schneider cams.
The bolts are stripped from some numb nuts attempting to remove them at the junk yard, so I had to cut the top hats off the bolt to allow me to remove the cam gears and the cam shafts from the head.
They are for sale if anyone needs, they are clean set of cam gears and cam shafts from the pathfinder.
added images
Front wrecked pathfinder, this looks promising.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2015-12-12%2010.25.18.jpg)
Heads look extremely clean,
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2015-12-12%2014.42.42.jpg)
You can see where I had to cut the bolts top hats off to get the cam shafts removed. But other then that they are clean too.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2015-12-14%2020.19.09.jpg)
and...
Success for the night, I plan to have alot more done tomorrow night.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2015-12-15%2021.19.24.jpg)
So Clean
She is taking shape already,
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2015-12-16%2020.52.43.jpg)
You are going to love those heads. And no more exhaust manifold stud issues either!
MAN, I wish I still had the drive and energy you have! I can't wait to hear how it all goes, you deserve great results with all the effort you've been putting in your cars!
Here is an small update on t he project so far. https://youtu.be/i5tINaVT1rA
Have you fully drove it yet? If so can you feel a difference in power or tq?
before the heads, it has a huge gain in power / tq, I could only imagine now.
I am flushing the crap out of the block right now, and when I can get it to stop stalling from sometype of vacuum leak I will be test driving it possibly tonight.
So how did it go?
We came, we seen, we kicked its ass....
Fixed the overheating issue, the lower tube that connects to the lower radiator hose and thermostat that is a direct lead tot he heater hose was clogged somehow that killed the flow it seems, also the right thermostat makes a difference it seems as well.
I am using the plugs that came with the heads so I am assuming that is my weird idle and random shut off.
Nice! Can't wait to hear feedback on the heads...
Having massive issues,
To start off I made a 5 minute video of what I am speaking about.
[youtube] https://youtu.be/RkPuCypjk7Y [/youtube]
@ about 3-4 minutes into the video you can see how the engine is starting to chug, and at the end it stalls.
If I attempt to drive it, it will feel good for the first 1 minute but after that if I touch the gas it will either stall or almost stall.
So digging around the engine harness has been broken at the o2 sensor connection and at the chts harness as well.
So I am now soldering up the connections and re-testing again because only thing different now is the heads. Everything else is the same exact as it was before the head swap and even then it wasn't like this.
Well the ongoing weirdness with my car, it seems that the vg33 heads HATES the IVAC and AAC. Seems that I have deleted them and now the weird idle is gone, but my harness is still in fail monkey mode as it has failed me again.
I have been re-soldering connections mostly for the IVAC valve and other stuff but since that is now deleted it doesn't mean much. My o2 sensor on the engine harness side.
So when I am done applying some temp fixes and get it daily status in which I HATE rain right now it is preventing me from fixing my o2 sensor, i will focus on building a MS wiring harness replacement and just go MS, in the mean time to keep my car going until I can get the blue car's KA rebuilt and installed.
Post Merge
As an update, seems that I got the idle fixed with the timing but, when I increased the timing, it went directly passed the H mark... so I am giving up for now, looks like the future is pulling the motor and bringing it down to a machine shop to hot tank and rebuild.... as it is looking like internally the block is cracked similar to what I have experienced with the heads.
Well, decided I am going full VG34e build and the carb is returning.
I am working on an inventory of my current CA20 / CA18ET (SOHC) stuff to start a parts list to start selling.
Blocks, Heads, and so on. I have decided I do not want to support the ca20/18et stuff just ca18det / ka24 / vg30/33
CA20\CA18ET is really not a bad block, it is like running windows 95 when they made windows 2000 that also worked with the same hardware with no issues and better performance. I just had my fun time with them and it is time to move forward.
I'd like some of the parts when I buy back the red car...
So this VG is temperamental to all hell... I got it to stop overheating finally so I went and started to tune and with the stock parts installed with IACV and AA deleted it has an issue to run very lean, when it should be running extremely rich.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-07%2000.39.43.jpg) No matter what I do with the timing, I can't get it to drop below 17.
So.... I need to adjust the fuel ratio better and best way to do that in a pinch with out blowing my cash I have stashed for the ca18det, is to reinstall the Carb setup. But why? you may ask....
1) it's an adjustable fuel system that I need...
2) I need something to adjust the a/f ratios to achieve an 14.7
3) Carb setup is what I have right now.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-08%2019.08.39.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-08%2019.09.06.jpg)
Is this a performance gain? for my application right now it is. I rather spend money on the ca18det and clean up the nightfury project.
I know the carb works, I only removed it before because I had issues with wiring under the hood, and other misc issues including overheating problems.
I still have to wire back the fuel pump which is like wiring for a ka24/ca/sr etc.... wiring the dizzy is easy, found a way to wire up the temp gauge this time around.
The hood closes believe it or not, but barely. I ordered some 25mm hood spacers, that should give enough lift and air passage.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-08%2019.11.21.jpg)
So, if this works out I might actually be drifting in spirits of the streets on the 20th of this month.
NICE!
Wondderingraven, I'm sitting on a clean dash here in north TX.
I got a clean dash too but it is for another s12 project I have actually placed aside.
Please be careful with that edlebrock air cleaner. I've seen hundreds of those things catch on fire!
Actually I am really strongly thinking about removing it all together and getting a real dish Holley one.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-10%2020.32.12.jpg)
I have finally got some free time and I started to do the wiring again. This is rather the easy part, I still have to do the wiring on the fuel pump.
Little progression last night,
I got a set of these in yesterday.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-11%2018.36.43.jpg)
These will lift the hood about 25mm, in theory it should work and it did.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-11%2021.06.12.jpg)
Everything is now together under the hood, what is left is the throttle cable (universal kit to customize), fuel pump install, then it is to start up and tune.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-11%2021.07.45.jpg)
is how she sits now with the hood rise 25mm.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-11%2021.07.53.jpg)
Hood closes with ease now.
The tire on the black car is a little low lol
Almost complete,
here is a video of she purring, on the first fire up as well.
https://youtu.be/UbE44TcoOX0
After some tuning at operational temperatures assuming it is.
I got 14.3 - 14.7 at idle,
I can turn her off and back on this time with no issues, no sparking from the starter like before. This is a very simple setup now, as nothing has changed from when it was at EFI.
Sounds amazing!! You are making great progress. Can't wait til see more updates and videos!
Progression is awesome I do say so myself.
So here is another video taken today as it has been since Sunday on the last startup.
https://youtu.be/qzBGZY9zXpY
There is a small list of things todo,
1) Securing the dizzy is a challenge right now, seems it is also limiting me from going above 3500 as I noticed it also attempts to die.
2) Temp gauge is still not working correctly, I cannot seem to find a way to mount an aftermarket one as the are all threaded too big, and I might have fried the sending unit easy $5 part at autozone.
3) Return spring seems to be a bit too tough as my throttle pedal is a bit stiff as fuck...
4) Exhaust leaks at the header to the Y pipes I gotta fix.
5) I do not like the routing of the current fuel lines I am researching a better solution in which I might just go full on AN fittings.
Other then that above, see seems to idle decent, starts right up after days of no start. No smoking except on the first start up as I did dump some fuel in from testing throttle linkage before fire. Response seems to be fast and neat, now if I can secure a few things I will get to test drive it.
But due to my schedule with work I am not going to drive this 20th of feb as I wanted to.
Mission almost accomplished! Does this mean that you can finally start attending the S12 meets? Be nice if you can get your three other S12's running. One project at a time. Perhaps we can have the next meet at your place. Can you imagine 25 S12's in your cul-de-sac?
Woah mind is blown here sir... yeah, I can re-arrange a huge BBQ in the back yard too.
But yeah, 1 project at a time, and yeah in theory this will be solid when mission is accomplished, all new seals everywhere so in essence this will be a solid setup and should have no problems driving when I toss on a new pair of tires.
I can't put the black car together yet, because I am waiting for all the seals as they are all on backorder that I need, I did just do a follow up so I am waiting to hear back, blue car needs. KA or just might see if I can also locate a ca18de I can toss in if I feel frisky enough and if Jason doesn't buy back the red s12 I might also take some time and toss something around in that car see what I can rewrite the CA18et back up toss some swazi rims my brother has for the mean time or also save for another ca18det to toss in.
Oh I'm buying the red car back lol Maven won't leave me alone about it...
Love it!
Finally figured out the wiring with the water gauge, I burned out the last one by accidentally touching the wire with another power source so I have replaced it with another $5 unit.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-20%2014.55.32.jpg)
Next, is the dizzy isn't secure enough so I am having high revs lost of power.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-20%2013.35.30.jpg)
I set the vg30 next to the vg33 plate that holds the dizzy down, and turns out the vg33 would actually with with me alot better than the old vg30 plate, it is also thicker and angle screw helps with tightening the plate and bracket down easier.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-20%2013.56.44.jpg)
With this tied down now, It doesn't have any play and seems to take a lot of force to move it.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016-02-20%2015.13.04.jpg)
https://youtu.be/T0zaTHSa6Ws
Until I saw that picture i had completely forgotten the difference between the VG30 and VG33 brackets. We kept the VG33 bracket when we did our hybrid build because it is just better. Sorry I didn't think think about that in chat today. May have saved you some time and grief.
wasn't the 500 too much tho?
I think it was, but once again jets are the issue on both applications.
500 CFM is tuned for a higher system.
ahh ok
Yeah, so my main issue is fuel delivery, currently I can flood it or starve it at WOT...
So just waiting for the kit to arrive Tuesday-ish at the end of day. I should be working on the Cadet but currently doing house stuff instead that needs attention.
The fun of tuning a carb, in the middle of determining the jet size, accel pump size and so on.
So I am a bit confused,
I am still working out the details,
I have first jetted from 61 to 69,
I have first for the accel pump nozzle from 31 to 28 then to 35... I went with 28 because of a saying from Holley's Youtube channel that got me confused. Lower numbers sounds more my application but in this case it was in the wrong direction.
https://youtu.be/k-Nx5HEzvlY
vs
https://youtu.be/47A6_LF295o
I am thinking of going 50cc vs the current 30cc... I believe this will help me achieve higher RPM's in the long rung especially if I am planning on drifting.
http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/tech-info/carburetors/carb-class/carb-class-giving-the-bog-the-boot
That sounds like a lot of work for carb lol I'll stick with EFI on all my motors fuck that lol
From what I have been gathering, if this was an old school v8 it's easier and alot more simple.
Here I am guesstimating the size, flow, and application for the vg30/33 hybrid with HL cams.
if I went back to EFI I need to rock at least 450cc, PSI around 41 and nistune to control the flow to make up the difference in air flow I have caused / created.
This is why I am extremely lean when it came to stock EFI.
If I did a turbo conversion instead, I think I would be in trouble, lol
Without having the equipment to measure the true CFM of air the engine is ingesting I would start with a similar V8 configuration, then multiply/divide back b the ratio of CID displacement. Even if it gets you close you will still have a few days of test-n-tune to get it dialed in . . . then post the results for the rest of us!!!
That is something I have been looking for... seems that I am all googled out or what not...