Project: Fairlady Silvia - 1987 200sx SEv6...

So far flushing has been a success, just a little tight on cash flow for now to proceed with more fuel and driving it around.

From what I head it is a common issue with the mysterious overheating. Due to the casting inside that doesn't get cut away it shows like a weird cave like and when rust builds up it causes the flow to be slow and weak and overheating starts from the back of the block.   

Well on the good side it has been doing good with the cooling part, in other news. My tripod for the GoPro will be here on a Sunday (very odd amazon prime ftw), so I get to re-install the carb setup and do as a documentary write up to my previous write up so it will be fun to do.

I just cleaned out my garage, I storage a bunch of parts I don't use or utilize so I have alot of room for future activities and some new plans coming down the pipeline.

I've put the lip back on, fixed both fenders perm with fixing the braces that connect up front, I couldn't align the bumper all the say because the mounting points are all ripped.
Door now shuts great on both sides no more snags and bending. 

That being said, my PRW-2 mod the connectors between the old setup has crumbled some so I had to get replacement clips. At the same time I picked up another, doing so I had to re think how I did it in the first place so I did a small change up.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016/2016-09-12%2001.04.47.jpg)

Took a drive around the corner and seems to be alright, kinda scary but alright. Attempts to stall when I make a left turn a few times but other then that it seems to be good.
Timing also seems off, including the timing light. at full advanced on the dizzy it is at +30 btdc, if I retard the timing it goes beyond +35 btdc. 

Adding in the video.
https://youtu.be/FAtmZG7Af58

fixed that issue, but the other issues I am having is related to the efi harness. Still idling like a message, with the z31 86 o2 sensor and 88 maf it ran really rich, I changed out with the s12 stuff and same issue keeping the z31 o2, switching to the s12 o2 sensor with s12 stock maf and it went super lean and loopy idle from 900 rpm to 2k at random times.

revisit the efi harness and things are just breaking apart when I touch each connections,  I did re do the ignition module & coil setup as shown in the last thread but that didn't resolve my other issues only start up and random stall.

Next time I go efi if I do and best be for a good reason, is I have to go full Mega Squirt. This harness is too frail to continue to keep using, so since we are back to carb setup.

Here she is:
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2016/2016-09-14%2020.50.20.jpg)

How many times have you swapped back and forth now?

kelso840 on 11:21:48 AM / 15-Sep-16How many times have you swapped back and forth now?

Yea.  Faulty distributor caused at least half of the headaches you have had with this build.  With the right dizzy day one you may have had the engine done months ago and had a new daily.

iceageg on 10:01:28 PM / 15-Sep-16Yea.  Faulty distributor caused at least half of the headaches you have had with this build.  With the right dizzy day one you may have had the engine done months ago and had a new daily.

Ok so here I am at it again, it's up and running turn the key and it was operational.

//First start
https://youtu.be/BSOuJNnyBg0

//Idle fix
https://youtu.be/5qf9i1_iN78

//Walk around
https://youtu.be/_vvbEFFvBEI

Seems to be running as well as ever.

Indeed some little throttle kinks I am working on, but other then that I am a bit frighten of it right now because feels like it is running perfectly little test in the street and seems to be good also. I can't go far as it is currently unregistered.   :reallysad:

Yeah, with this car you shouldn't get your hopes up until you put 100 miles on it.

Another quick update, https://youtu.be/jyraITs8RPA
Fired right up, idle gives it that offset that it doesn't seem like a vg anymore.

Drove it today and it seems to drive good, only issue is the rough throttle cable / stuck spring return. So I might just order another universal bracket + cable

You might try squirting some Tri-Flow into the cable sleeve, point the end up and let it drain down around the cable inside the sleeve.  Sometimes that works wonders on sticky cables.

I've had success using motorcycle chain lube like PJ1 or Kal-Gard. It sprays out thin then thickens as the propellents evaporate. This keeps the stuff from flying off the chain.

Yeah, I think more of the resistance is using the oem and the pivot points kinda kinks the throttle cable that is causing a rough tap and hard to control the throttle.

the oem wraps a full S and it's tight before it touches the carb.

If I go back to doing a new Universal Throttle Cable provided by mr gasket, I can trim to fit.  Just when I do it while I am testing to fit or it becomes nearly impossible to fit if I remove stuff   as the cable tends to fray and become impossible to thread it back through.

well so far so good on keeping it started with finances kinda stabling and I was able to find a cheaper insurance I will be re-registering my car this weekend.

Well it's just another start up video, soon I will register her and drive her again... until then enjoy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE_X_jzpTX0

Being Agnostic,

I decided to head to the local church near by and *park* in the lot.
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2017/2017-01-15%2011.40.58.jpg)
(http://www.g-funk.net/200sx/fairladysilvia/2017/2017-01-15%2011.41.09.jpg)

Glad to see you have her back on the road.  Time to get your other three S12's running.

Getting more seat time with her now, I got a bad exhaust leak that last time I Drove it around the area a few times made my head feel extremely light headed. Leak is happening at where the Y  pipe connects to the headers.

As an update somehow the Y pipe that connects to the exhaust manifolds seems to be warped so for a quick fix I went ahead and wrapped it with exhaust wrap and seems to be good so far.

woot!

Been wanting to drive her more but have other house issues right now including unwanted drama.

Lately I have been more into switching motors completely going from the vg30s to the vg30det on a budget build and using the cedric intake y31.
More I am getting into the ca18det Robin build more I am wanting to do the change over so I am thinking maybe 2018?

Spent this weekend troubleshooting some more issues with this, overheating started to climb back as the high pressure kicked in full force and 85-90 outside somehow causing my car to over heat again.

At this point I removed the noisy mishimoto efans as suspected they are dying or just not pushing enough with the maxima efans, finally cleaned up the wiring for rewiring the efans setup.
, At idle it heats up and when I rev or drive it cools down some.

Suspecting an air pocket trapped.
So I heard some people say this is a great tool to have
https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G

So I might just order one.

Mean time, here is an updated video.
https://youtu.be/H6npeAUCeNM

Motor sounds great!  Let me know if the Airlift Cooling System Checker works in case you decide to purchase.

Will do, Figured it will be easier to fill up other cars with it as I am getting closer with the Red s12 good way to test and fill the s12.

I got the Airlift 2 version that was a bit cheaper https://www.amazon.com/550500-AirLift-Economy-Cooling-Refiller/dp/B000IHK1VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489625339&sr=8-1&keywords=uview+airlift+2
Should be here tomorrow

the air lift works great, be sure to have newish hoses or they will crush them if they are old as it creates a huge vaccum at around 25psi and it will suck anything in quickly.

BUt that did not resolve my issue, the issue remains and this is the issue that started it all.

Last in my troubleshooting list is to delete the thermostat all together and see if that changes anything.

So far to recap,
New radiator Mishimoto,
3 water pumps all flow the same,
radiator flush
New VG33 heads,
Tested the cooling system psi
Tested the cooling system for exhaust fumes

Wideband installed to test for rich or lean conditions, efi and carb ran lean due to various issues over the year but it was due to the timing was set wrong, when I fixed to the correct timing, in EFI it ran extremely rich, and in carb I was able to tune it down to what it is today running decent and strong. idle and running at stoic conditions 14.7ish

I even ran some acid inside to clear up all the rust build up, that I thought worked but I guess in the winter time I didn't run it long enough.

So to this day, what would happen is I get inside I drive it around for a bit it would be ok, everything seems to be good then about an hour of driving around, hammering it hard at some places and this would take about and hour or 2 when idling it would just out of the blue gradually overheat. If I hit the top radiator hose with an IR it matches heat index on the guage. 235 F is about 2/3 of the way to H

More I let it idle, more it will over heat if I rev it up it would attempt to cool it down but after a few minutes of idle it will return to overheating slowly.
basically, it reverted back to the original problem when I first stopped and rebuild everything possible including new piston rings.
 
So as someone suggested, to try it with out a thermostat I am going to remove it and try it. If this doesn't work I will source out an vg33 replacement and slap the carb, cams, oil pan and pickup line (i think needs to be modified a tad) and toss it in. seems like I can pick them up for around 600 - 700 with 100k milage from a pathfinder.

-=[ Update ]=-

Here is a video of the latest overheating problem.

https://youtu.be/5PAcnZsJ91o

No thermostat and the engine is cools, Drove it around for 2 hours and it barely hit 1/3 of the way.

So I have been tolerating an issue since driving around I don't recall the clutching acting strange. It feels like I have pressure, good pressure, but the problem is I can feel it with the pressure plate but it will not engage the clutch till I touch the floor and I don't recall that happening. When shifting from 1st to 2nd it would be extremely hard to shift, and to third would be a bit better but still it requires the foot to the ground with the high pressure already it makes it really tough.

so I am going to replace it with an OEM Exeddy, and remove the XTC ebay crap.

Assume you still have the hydraulic slave set up?  Make sure it's bled properly and has good fluid level

yeah all is the same before I taken it apart, I don't remember the clutch acting this way and I can feel the pressure plate and such. When I get the new clutch I might flush and re-bleed.

Keeping the VG33 round tooth timing gears requires using the VG33 crank unless you make a bushing to shim the internal diameter of the round tooth crank gear down to the VG30 crank diameter.  This is important to note because the VG33 crank requires you to use the VG33 oil pump which re-locates the oil filter and dictates which oil pickups and pans you can use.  Lots of options that dictate which associated parts must be used.

iceageg on 12:39:31 PM / 12-Apr-17Keeping the VG33 round tooth timing gears requires using the VG33 crank unless you make a bushing to shim the internal diameter of the round tooth crank gear down to the VG30 crank diameter.  This is important to note because the VG33 crank requires you to use the VG33 oil pump which re-locates the oil filter and dictates which oil pickups and pans you can use.  Lots of options that dictate which associated parts must be used.

Using the VG33 crank you will definitely want Mr 510's crank adapter to use the stock pulleys.  You will get to use all of your old accessories.  On the pathfinder though it moved the oil filter to the other side of the engine (from passenger to driver), in the way of the power steering pump.  I had to fab up a new tensioner to swing the pump a little farther over and use a longer belt.  I don't have an s12 SE to go look at to verify if that will be the case for you or not.

I don't have much of accessories left on the old vg, but in the mean time I have ordered an
http://www.frsport.com/DIF-10041-Auto-to-Manual-Stainless-Steel-Clutch-Line-Conversion_p_15326.html

to replace my current line on a loss of pressure and unable to shift when driving.

I might stick to the VG33 heads and VG30 Block as I might have a replacement coming my way.

Well disregard all issues in the past about my overheating issue, my cluster is malfunctioning.
Here is a ride along video, enjoy.
https://youtu.be/RHKZyHV-VcY

As noted, all this time I should have done this a long time ago.
https://youtu.be/fZLdRKSvTX0

Welp atleast there's no problem!

And I have spun a rod bearing, due to some house drama with a newly developed mentally ill roommate, it will be a while before I can fully confirm.

Yeah no worries, I didn't think I would actually need a rev limiter but I was wrong. DUI makes a nifty device for the rev limiting starting at 6k, I figured that would be great since the oil breaks down badly on the VG's around 5500+ causing an oil starvation, from what I have read they fixed parts of that with porting the oil pump some and running an oil stabilizer and a brand of oil that doesn't break down as easy. 

I was running cheap synthetic oil from Autozone 10w30. 

If I didn't just work 1 hour a day on pulling the motor, I would have it on a stand by now getting the crank out, I have a spare crank to replace this one but I have to watch out for the pistons but then again I can get a whole short block with pistons / crank.

Pulled motor,

Piston was slapping the head, and the bearing was spun left a small grove on the inside of the connecting rod.

I am looking for a direct replacement possible vg33 to slap together and toss back in.

Woot git'er done!

I could pick up andrews long block but I need someone with a truck that can make it to arizona and back.

I'd be down If I had a truck

Right now I am having a yard sale with parts including parting out the parts with the KA24de seems that I have made some pending cash so far by this weekend should be even enough to pick up a local vg33 imported pathfinder that I see on CL often. and still able to flip and sell the 2002 firebird I recently acquire and fix my financial situation but also having an issue with an unstable roommate with a serious condition that he refuses to get help for and I have to seek legal means to get him out and that process is also costly if I have to go that route.

I wrote a bit about it on here http://www.g-funk.net/blog/spinning-the-bearings-and-a-religion-delusion/

I have a bunch of stuff still forsale in the sale threads I believe I could use the cash flow for the support of getting a replacement motor up and running again.

You can evict him give him a legal 30 day shouldn't cost that much. Go to the self help dept at the court house. I can go with if you like I've been there a few times and it'll save you money on the legal fees because your doing it yourself. and if you feel uneasy about it after get a restraining order to protect yourself.

I'm waiting for his court date for battery that is at near the end of June.

Anyways I had someone look at the Machine shop on the damage and because I caught it in time, I can get away with a new fresh same size bearings.
But the block has some deep scratches on the walls.

I am currently selling stuff for a replacement block all together most likely a full VG33,  including the KA24de parts that I have parted out.

Well before the court date I'd get the eviction papers ready so you can bring them to court just incase...

Acquired a secondary motor.

sweeet